3) Ferns Nipple (map disabled)

Please read the Introduction

Fern's Nipple is a prominent pointed peak visible from Highway 24 and places along the scenic drive. Cass Mulford of Torrey, noted that it was named for a local resident, Fern Graham.

There are a number of ways to get to the base of the peak, none of them good. This route describes the easiest way though not the shortest or quickest. From the base, two routes are described here. One goes to the top of the peak, the other makes a circle trip around the peak. The two can easily be combined.

Both trips offer interesting scrambling through appealing country with a variety of slopes, aspects and views. The summit route offers the best views, the circle trip the most variety. This is a worthwhile trip however you do it.

About 60 vertical feet below the summit there is an exposed pitch that turns many people around. Remember, it is much more scary coming down than going up. An accomplished leader will want to have some rope or webbing available to assist anyone not used to exposure.

TIME:2.5 - 4 hours to the top.
6 - 9 hours for the summit and loop.
5 - 7 hours for the loop only.
ELEVATION GAIN:1500 feet.
DIFFICULTY:Moderate route finding. Difficult scrambling.
MAP: Fruita, Golden Throne
GEOLOGY:A walk through four rock formations with good regional views of Waterpocket Fold structure.
PLANTS:A large variety of exposures, rock types, and plants.
CIRCLE TRIPYes. Parking a second vehicle at the Grand Wash parking area on the east end of the scenic drive will save a one mile walk up that road at the end of the trip.
ACCESS:From the Visitor Center drive 3.5 miles south on the scenic drive to a signed junction at Grand Wash. Turn left (east) and drive 0.6 miles down the Grand Wash road.

While driving the last 0.2 miles notice the dark brown sandstone cliff band on the right (south) side, not far above the valley floor. This layer is sloping down and blends into the valley floor at about 0.6 miles from the Grand Wash junction. (A) Park, walk southwest across Grand Wash, and up along the top of that brown sandstone. Follow it south along the east side of a side canyon. The cliffs to the left (east) are composed of the Wingate Sandstone and the slope below the cliffs is part of the Chinle Formation. The Chinle is made up of various colors, textures and types of rock, one of which is the sandstone you are following.

Meander through the yellowish boulders as necessary until reaching the main wash crossing at the southern extent of the sandstone cliff. Cross the water course (bedrock) (B) then leave the sandstone and climb the ridge on the west (right) side of drainage. After climbing 150 feet or so the slope will lessen some. Look at the cliff on the left (east). At the head of the drainage just crossed there is a solid wall. To the right (west) of that there is a narrow cut, then to the right (west) of that, a broken area which the route goes through. At the top of that broken area there is a band of reddish rock. The route goes through that reddish rock at the southern most jog.

To get there, follow the ridge up aiming west (right) of the eventual goal to take advantage of the rubble slope that buries the small cliff bands near the base of the broken area. Follow the ridge almost to the base of the Wingate cliff (C) then turn left (east) and go along to and through the first walkable route in the lowest Wingate rock. It is necessary to drop some to get around into the broken area.

Once in the broken area climb south for 75 vertical feet then move to the west (D) (right) side against the Wingate cliff to get above an un-cooperative cliff band. Once above that, move left (southeast) and up to the southern most notch (E) in the red rock to climb through it.

Above the red rock the terrain funnels into a cut to the south. Walk into the tree covered area, then behind (south) of it the route to the top of this portion of the trip is directly up the gully (F). There is a Douglas Fir tree about a third of the way up and a nasty recent rockfall to scramble.

At the first step up the gully there is a silvery green leafed Buffaloberry plant on the right (west).

Stay in the gully all the way to the top to a view south across Miners Mountain and down to the Scenic Drive. From there turn left (east) and, climbing some, skirt around the east side of the hill you are on. Continue around the hill until there is a full view to the south, then stop and observe what is ahead.

Fern's Nipple dominates to the east and the route on that rock mass can be seen from this vantage point. It starts at the north end of the mass and climbs to a more gently sloping area with a few trees on it. From the south end of that, the route climbs almost straight to the summit with a little meandering to stay on the best path.

There is a problem getting to that starting point; the significant cliff wall immediately west of the mass of Fern's Nipple. There is a break in that wall to the left (north) of the Nipple but a recent rock fall wiped out the route through there. (It was not popular anyway) That leaves only a trip around the south end of that "Fern's Nipple Wall" (The Wall) as a route.

A straight line walk to the south end of The Wall would require lots of up and down through the upper portion of the Shinob Canyon drainage. Aim south (right) of the end of The Wall and stay right to avoid major ups and downs. Even staying right will not eliminate all rolling as there are a couple small ridges to go over. Most of the ground walked along the way will be over red brown dirt and rock of the Kayenta Formation. Getting to the base of The Wall seems to be a problem but as you closely approach the south end and just before getting pinched out near large broken slabs of tan sandstone there is a (K) solid scramble route up the last small cliff. The bush in the way as you move up the little cliff is a Littleleaf Mountain Mahogany. Above that it is just yards to the south end of The Wall (W).

Stay left. A short distance up canyon there is a break (B) in the left wall. Move up that break, staying with the easiest route until up to the level of the top of that canyon. Walk East to the wash that feeds that canyon. At the top the loop trip (L) and the Fern's Nipple summit trip separate. The loop goes east across the wash and up the rock covered slope while the summit route goes up the wash to the north.

Fern's Nipple Summit

Go up the wash to the end, over a pass (P), then down a north trending wash for 150 yards. Leave the wash (Q) and angle right (northeast) up through a wide break to another pass.

From there Fern's Nipple summit is close to the southeast. Climb on the Navajo Sandstone "Elephant Hide" (M) toward the summit. After a short time the slope lessens and there is a broad, slightly sloping surface (S) heavily speckled with dark rocks. A number of Ponderosa Pine trees dot the gentle slope. The main shrub here is Littleleaf Mountain Mahogany but interspersed are some reddish barked Serviceberry bushes. Stay right (west) near the edge of the gentle slope and go up the yellow rock cut. When convenient turn slightly left (southeast) and wind toward the summit. The route up the final cliff is just around to the west from the north ridge nose. There are four small brown colored sheer vertical faces skipping west from that nose. The route goes up beside the last (western most) one (V). The going is not bad at first but just past the bump, hand and foot holds get somewhat scarce.

Missing picture

Move up the slope and when possible go east (left) for easy scrambling to the summit.

The Loop Route

Angle right (northeast), cross the wash and climb the scattered rock covered slope headed east. It is alright to bear slightly left (north) while climbing but not too much. At the ridge top check the canyon in front. If it is sort of small and drains northwest, go around the south end of it and east until above the next canyon. If the canyon is larger and draining off Ferns' Nipple headed south (right) then stop and observe (o) the area. Fern's Nipple is almost due north, next on the horizon to the right (east) there is a high mass (short ridge) of Navajo Sandstone. Next, and somewhat more distant, is a high, redbrown, smooth, slightly sloping, ridge. East of that on the skyline is an almost flat, bumpy topped, Navajo hill with red stains on it particularly on the south slope. The route goes to the north end of this bumpy topped hill (Bumpy Top) but there are many drainages in the way.

Walk north along the east rim of the small canyon (b) to the south apron of Fern's Nipple. Turn right (east) as possible, staying on Fern's red and yellow painted apron and above the drainages going south. Head directly toward Bumpy Top until reaching a ridge crest that is thickly covered with black rock and there is a view to the north.

Look east. At the north end of Bumpy Top and just west (closer) there is a smaller dome of Navajo Sandstone. The route goes north along the east base of that dome. To get there drainages need to be crossed or skirted. The first one is the worst.

Head down. (f) Discretion and comfort will dictate a slightly north of east descent into the drainage. Once in the wash head downstream a short distance to a smoothish low saddle (h) that breaches the east wall. Turn left (east) up through that saddle and when Bumpy Top is back in view (i) head for the center (j) of it.

Again, staying to the left, mostly on slickrock, will reduce the amplitude of the ups and downs. When on the last ridge with Bumpy Top in full view walk down to the northeast to a bedrock ramp (q). Stay left (north) following the ramp until it turns north. Follow it north then drop off the end of it (k) headed east and walk down to the first wash (m) coming down from the left (north). Continue east 100 feet or so to the next small wash (n) then turn left (north) up it. The wash becomes a gully with a notch (p) on the skyline. Walk up to that notch and enjoy the view. There is a Ponderosa Pine with a dead top part way up that gully.

From there, WORK your way down (north). (You are descending Bear Canyon.) It is a really fun descent. About fifteen minutes down you will come to a slot that you can see descends a long way. Step left and go thirty-five+ yards out a dirt-and brush-covered ridge then bear right (east) and work down beside the slot to the wash (r).

About thirty minutes down from the notch, Bear Canyon widens a bit and the wash bottom becomes bedrock. Near the end of the bedrock the wash turns left (west) and drops out of sight, headed right toward a huge dead tree sticking up from the canyon below. Where the wash turns left (x), continue straight (north) and take the easy, almost level, slickrock walk staying fairly close to edge of Bear Canyon. After about 150 yards a vegetated bench will come into view ahead. The route follows that bench to the end. Small, but somewhat deep, washes cross the bench, particularly early in the walk, and are most easily passed on the right (east) side near the cliff wall.

After ten minutes, keep an eye on the right hand (east) wall of the bench. At the end of the bench (not easily discerned as you approach) there will be three features; a cut against that east cliff wall, a cut a little farther north and a narrowing ridge that continues north with Bear Canyon on the left and a new canyon on the right. The route goes down the first (east) cut along the wall. The second cut soon turns vertical and the ridge leads into more trouble than it is worth.

The cut turns into a wash. Stay in or beside the wash as it lessens in slope. The wash will become a slickrock walk for a short distance (v), and then will turn left (west) over a 5 foot pour-over. Do not go down the pour-over. Leave the wash, walk straight ahead up a low ridge, bear right (northeast) a bit toward the wall again and cross a small wash (w) which quickly becomes a canyon. Continue on the easiest path heading generally north and it will soon become apparent that there is yet another canyon coming in from the right that must be circumvented. Walk around the point, and a short distance up the side canyon until the wash can be easily crossed.

Once across, turn left (north) again and walk the rim of the canyon on the left. There is a good game trail to follow. The walk soon becomes a slickrock walk and curves right until headed east. At the point where a boulder blocks the rim (y), pass it on the downhill side, turn left and walk down into Grand Wash (z). At Grand Wash, turn left (west) and walk upstream fifteen minutes to the parking lot.


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